This transmission is notorious for shifting late, or not up-shifting at all. Here's a quote from 'How Stuff Works.' Link: ' Automatic transmission: TH-125 automatic transmissions may shift late or not upshift at all. The problem is a stuck throttle valve inside the transmission. I had this problem with my 1994 Z24. But it went away (for now) when I replaced the O2 sensor and had the vacuum lines taped up (they were.
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Electrical Sensors that can affect automatic transmission operation. If it fails it can cause automatic transmission problems such as late harsh shifts, early soft shifts, or can result in no shifting at all. It is used to inhibit overdrive and the converter clutch when the engine is too cold. If it fails it may or may not produce an. A) There is some slippage (while in first gear) when I accelerate hard from a stop. I guess my first check would be the filter in the auto transmission. Is the transmission oil filter accessible once you drop the pan? What is the part number? I don't see it in the exploded views in the parts manuals. And b) It shifts too early.
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![Gearbox Gearbox](/uploads/1/2/5/5/125557886/187786324.jpg)
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I moved to Australia and everyone drives automatic here so I had to buy one too because I need to resell the car in 1-2 years again. It's a 2001 bmw e46.The first thing I noted (I have driven multiple manual e46s in the past) is the horrendous fuel economy in city traffic. I managed to counter this slightly by shifting in semiautomatic mode and squeeze perhaps another 1-1.5L/100km out of the car although I'm not quite sure when the ideal point to shift is.I note that unlike with a manual pressing the gas pedal will rev the engine faster than the actual output shaft is going unless you cruise steadily and the torque converter locks up. With the manual ones for best fuel economy the rpms should be above 1200 after an upshift so usually its best to shift around 2200ish rpm. Seems to be true for the automatic during normal cruising, i.e.
If I just let the cruise control take over and the gas pedal isn't really pressed much at lower speeds then the car gets better fuel economy at 1300 than at 1000rpm with a different gear. Unlike with the manual you cant really feel the engine lugging.HOWEVER, during a normal driving scenario even when pressing the gas pedal lightly the car revs all the way up to 2000-3000 rpm. So even though I might shift too early into 5th gear and the cruising rpm would be i.e.
The data for fuel consumption is being read out via a driving computer from the OBD. I just gave l/100km values coz they are bit easier to understand.
![Gearbox Gearbox](/uploads/1/2/5/5/125557886/891847813.jpg)
That you get a variance of 2L/100km from air temperature is complete nonsense. The tests were all done after another with a warm engine.I get about 11l/100km on the manual version of the car which is fine.
Obviously at the end of the day it does not make a huge difference if its 11 or 13 or 14l this is merely a discussion. (fuel economy during crusing i.e.
At 130kmh is completly fine, no difference to the manual)23MPG for combined highway and city would be really shoddy for an E46 with the 2.5L. I get that driving over 100mph on the autobahn. Not sure how much worse the E36 was. That you get a variance of 2L/100km from air temperature is complete nonsense.I said it was a variable, not the variable. There are tons of other factors but air density drastically effects how an engine performs, along with tire pressure, humidity.
Consider that engine warm up cycle is longer when its colder outside as well, and if its a ton of short trips in cold air, then the engine is going to be running in Open Loop more regularly, which dumps significantly more fuel into the engine with the intention of warming up the fluids faster, for emissions purposes.Yes, air temperature, trip duration, tire pressure, shift points, and vehicle maintenance all matter, not just one single thing; such a shift points. Internal engine drag rises with rpm while on an Otto cycle engine resistance from the vacuum above the pistons on the intake stroke is a substantial drag on the engine (which is one reason diesels are more efficient than Otto, no vacuum on a diesel). Keep the revs down and the engine vacuum low (but not too low because then the ECU will go open loop and make the F/A mixture more rich).The best way to find the most efficient driving style is with an onboard computer with an instantaneous mileage readout.
Strive to keep the instantaneous efficiency as high as possible, you'll figure out what works in short order.Maintaining momentum helps with efficiency also, every time you hit the brakes you lose kinetic energy that you had to burn gasoline to create, so drive in such a manner you use the brakes as little as possible.